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#11. Posted:
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Yak wrotepublic IP's don't ONLY start with 10,172 or 192...............they only do in net 110. inb4 whats a subnet and why can i only go up to 254 on my ipv4 octet's and how do i RTFM.Tyler- wroteYak wroteTyler- wrote I've done all of this, It is my actual public IP Everything is correct.
What do you mean its your actual public IP?
In the picture byou posted, in the blacked out box that says "IP address", what are the first 3 numbers of the IP address you have there?
My ip that you see when you're a mod on a site or anyplace else, that IP, im using the correct IP address I've portforwarded before. My ISP has confirmed there are no restrictions on that port, my Router is the problem.
You DO NOT put your public IP in that box. It is for the IP address of your computer on your LAN. It will be either a 10.x.x.x, 172.x.x.x, or 192.168.x.x address. If it does not start with a 10, 172, or a 192 then YOU are doing it wrong.
Run IPCONFIG from a command prompt on the machine you are using. Copy that IPv4 address and use that to configure port forwarding on your router. It WILL start with either 10, 172, or 192.
Last edited by vokal ; edited 3 times in total
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#12. Posted:
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vokal wroteTyler- wrote I've done all of this, probably the sixth time now. there has to be one part that Dlink has added that im missing.if thats the case then i would think its a issue with your firewall or you have some type of Anti Virus that wants you to authorize the communication as well running on your system. that or you miss read the manual.
EDIT: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ] I am just now getting this error.... Just great.....
Ill reset the router entirely, and try again. ill get back to you in a moment.
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#13. Posted:
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Tyler- wrote I've done all of this, probably the sixth time now. there has to be one part that Dlink has added that im missing.why do you have soo many Tunnels? check device manager and kill the ones you dont need.....
EDIT: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ] I am just now getting this error.... Just great.....
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#14. Posted:
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vokal wroteYak wrotepublic IP's don't ONLY start with 10,172 or 192...............they only do in net 110. inb4 whats a subnet and why can i only go up to 254 on my ipv4 octet's and how do i RTFM.Tyler- wroteYak wroteTyler- wrote I've done all of this, It is my actual public IP Everything is correct.
What do you mean its your actual public IP?
In the picture byou posted, in the blacked out box that says "IP address", what are the first 3 numbers of the IP address you have there?
My ip that you see when you're a mod on a site or anyplace else, that IP, im using the correct IP address I've portforwarded before. My ISP has confirmed there are no restrictions on that port, my Router is the problem.
You DO NOT put your public IP in that box. It is for the IP address of your computer on your LAN. It will be either a 10.x.x.x, 172.x.x.x, or 192.168.x.x address. If it does not start with a 10, 172, or a 192 then YOU are doing it wrong.
Run IPCONFIG from a command prompt on the machine you are using. Copy that IPv4 address and use that to configure port forwarding on your router. It WILL start with either 10, 172, or 192.
No I was saying private IPs. He must enter his private IP in that box.
The IANA (people in charge of addressing and domains on the internet) reserved 10, 172, and the 192.168 networks for private addressing. So ALL non-internet addresses will start with 10, 172, or 192.168.
If you would like me to Teamviewer your PC and set it up for you I gladly will, because explaining through text is becoming ridiculous. I have three different CompTIA certifications, A+, Network+, and Linux+. Ive been a computer networking student for a year and a half so I know what I'm doing.
Feel free to PM me with Teamviewer details, and I will take care of everything
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vokal wroteYak wrotepublic IP's don't ONLY start with 10,172 or 192...............they only do in net 110. inb4 whats a subnet and why can i only go up to 254 on my ipv4 octet's and how do i RTFM.Tyler- wroteYak wroteTyler- wrote I've done all of this, It is my actual public IP Everything is correct.
What do you mean its your actual public IP?
In the picture byou posted, in the blacked out box that says "IP address", what are the first 3 numbers of the IP address you have there?
My ip that you see when you're a mod on a site or anyplace else, that IP, im using the correct IP address I've portforwarded before. My ISP has confirmed there are no restrictions on that port, my Router is the problem.
You DO NOT put your public IP in that box. It is for the IP address of your computer on your LAN. It will be either a 10.x.x.x, 172.x.x.x, or 192.168.x.x address. If it does not start with a 10, 172, or a 192 then YOU are doing it wrong.
Run IPCONFIG from a command prompt on the machine you are using. Copy that IPv4 address and use that to configure port forwarding on your router. It WILL start with either 10, 172, or 192.
A subnet is a logical division of a network, thats what the subnet mask is for, to define these logical divisions.
You can't use the x.x.x.255 address for a host because that is the broadcast address for the network (so long as the subnet mask is set to the default mask for it's addressing class. Example: 192.168.10.255 is the broadcast address for all devices on the 192.168.10. network
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#16. Posted:
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Yak wrotevokal wroteYak wrotepublic IP's don't ONLY start with 10,172 or 192...............they only do in net 110. inb4 whats a subnet and why can i only go up to 254 on my ipv4 octet's and how do i RTFM.Tyler- wroteYak wroteTyler- wrote I've done all of this, It is my actual public IP Everything is correct.
What do you mean its your actual public IP?
In the picture byou posted, in the blacked out box that says "IP address", what are the first 3 numbers of the IP address you have there?
My ip that you see when you're a mod on a site or anyplace else, that IP, im using the correct IP address I've portforwarded before. My ISP has confirmed there are no restrictions on that port, my Router is the problem.
You DO NOT put your public IP in that box. It is for the IP address of your computer on your LAN. It will be either a 10.x.x.x, 172.x.x.x, or 192.168.x.x address. If it does not start with a 10, 172, or a 192 then YOU are doing it wrong.
Run IPCONFIG from a command prompt on the machine you are using. Copy that IPv4 address and use that to configure port forwarding on your router. It WILL start with either 10, 172, or 192.
No I was saying private IPs. He must enter his private IP in that box.
The IANA (people in charge of addressing and domains on the internet) reserved 10, 172, and the 192.168 networks for private addressing. So ALL non-internet addresses will start with 10, 172, or 192.168.
If you would like me to Teamviewer your PC and set it up for you I gladly will, because explaining through text is becoming ridiculous. I have three different CompTIA certifications, A+, Network+, and Linux+. Ive been a computer networking student for a year and a half so I know what I'm doing.
Feel free to PM me with Teamviewer details, and I will take care of everything
"The IANA (people in charge of addressing and domains on the internet) reserved 10, 172, and the 192.168 networks for private addressing. So ALL non-internet addresses will start with 10, 172, or 192.168."
the correct way of seeing this is
The IANA (people in charge of addressing and domains on the internet) reserved 10, 172, and the 192.168 networks for private addressing. So ALL Public internet addresses will not start with 10, 172, or 192.168.
the only routers that are locked into using the standard local starting ip schemes are retail/consumer routers and even then its so that you cannot use the local 192.172,10 scheme for your public IP not the local ip scheme on the router.
And when you are using higher class networking devices you can set any scheme you want into the public IP.
its cool that you have attained your intro certs i did as well awhile ago, and just finished my Cisco Certs last year as well as my mcse after having got my AA and BA in information and systems security as well as a AA in Networking, wow a whole year and a half in a networking program you must be uber 1337...... F A I L.
seriously though keep learning
also as you pointed out the starting IP's 192,172,10 are reserved for private ip addressing.That MEANS that those starting IP's (192,172,10) cannot be used as public IP adress's not that they are the only ones that can be used for private IP's. on the private side of my network my devices could care less what i set the local IP's too so long as they are on the same subnet seeing as all that info going from the pc to the router about the local IP gets left at the router during transit out to the modem... Headers>eaders>>aders>>>ders get stripped ;)
Last edited by vokal ; edited 4 times in total
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#17. Posted:
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I just had yak look at it, Told everyone this already, I've tried everything possible.
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Tyler- wrote I just had yak look at it, Told everyone this already, I've tried everything possible.dlink routers depending on age/model and firmware version have been known to have the portforwarding functions disabled.
some models of dlink router's cannot get around this issue while others can be updated to either a working firmware or can have a custom firmware like DDWRT installed/flashed onto them to get the ability to forward back.
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
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vokal wroteTyler- wrote I just had yak look at it, Told everyone this already, I've tried everything possible.dlink routers depending on age/model and firmware version have been known to have the portforwarding functions disabled.
some models of dlink router's cannot get around this issue while others can be updated to either a working firmware or can have a custom firmware like DDWRT installed/flashed onto them to get the ability to forward back.
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Thank you all for your help, especially vokal. I already have my eye on a netgear router.
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Tyler- wrotefind a decent one that doesnt have a md5 check on the browser update so that you can use a more customizable firmware with out having to solder into to flash ;) you can find the types of routers that support custom firmware browser updating on DDWRT's forums/site, its well worth the time to get it running on a low end residential router ;)vokal wroteTyler- wrote I just had yak look at it, Told everyone this already, I've tried everything possible.dlink routers depending on age/model and firmware version have been known to have the portforwarding functions disabled.
some models of dlink router's cannot get around this issue while others can be updated to either a working firmware or can have a custom firmware like DDWRT installed/flashed onto them to get the ability to forward back.
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Thank you all for your help, especially vokal. I already have my eye on a netgear router.
Your Dlink is supported and has a install guide that should get portforwarding working with little effort.
"Hardware
You can tell which Rev of the hardware this router is from the box (it will say "H/W Ver: C1 F/W Ver 3.01" for example on the bottom of the box, underneath the barcode). A similar sticker with the hardware version and firmware version is also stuck on the bottom of the router itself. This means it's quick and easy to check the hardware revision before buying or borrowing it.
The factory default IP for this router is 192.168.0.1, user is "admin", password is blank.
[edit] Pros of this hardware
4 MB board, so no need to use "micro" DD-WRT builds.
Fairly inexpensive.
Fairly new hardware (released in 2009?), so it's widely available for purchase new.
Reasonably fast CPU clock speed.
Easy to install DD-WRT on this hardware (just flash through the web interface as per below, and you're done).
[edit] Cons of this hardware
No USB port, so cannot be a NAS for a USB drive, nor can it be used for Printer Sharing of a USB printer.
dir 615c2 USB! ( , ), 2 (D+/D-) atheros. usb dd-wrt dir615c2? ?
: ddr Winbond W9425G6EH-5 which is a 256 Mbit chip so 32 megs RAM seems certain. Atheros AR9130 CPU Atheros AR9102 WiFi chip 5-pin header possibly serial console 14-pin block probably JTAG
___________________ ? , ?
-, dir 615 , dir320! , dir 320 ( ) , -- , dir615
? 4???
[edit] Installation Instructions
[edit] Step-by-step instructions from out-of-the-box factory firmware
[For H/W D2 F/W 1.00VG skip steps 2-3 below, I found downloading "dlink-dir615d-factory-webflash.bin" 2010-08-09 directly worked fine AFTER restoring the device to the manufacture defaults (using the web interface maintenance -> reset to factory settings)]
To install dd-wrt on a D-Link DIR-615 Revision C1/C2/E3/E4, you can flash it directly from the router's web admin page (yes, that is correct... from D-Link's standard web interface). These are the steps to follow:
Download the latest firmware from: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ] , and enter the model as DIR-615. There will be two files, "dir615[revision]-factory-to-ddwrt-firmware.bin" and "dir615[revision]-firmware.bin". You only need the dir615[revision]-factory-to-ddwrt-firmware.bin file.
You'll have to find the hardware ID of your specific firmware. Your hardware ID is located at the end of your original D-Link's firmware file, available on D-Link websites. Get your original D-Link's firmware file using the following links: C1/C2 default firmware update site E3/E4 default firmware update site C2 RU firmware update site E4 RU firmware update site. Following are some popular hardware IDs: C1/C2 default: AP81-AR9130-RT-070614-02, E3 default: AP99-AR7240-RT-091105-01, E4 RU: AP99-AR7240-RT-091105-05. Note that in most cases, this hardware ID should have 2 leading zeros (e.g. 00AP81-AR9130-RT-070614-02). If the firmware version written on your router's box ends with RU (presumably for the Russian market, but also sold in other countries such as Israel), then the hardware ID might need to have a leading 01 instead of 00.
Use a hex editor to change the hardware ID at the end of DD-WRT's firmware file to your specific hardware ID. When copying the hardware ID from the DIR-615 firmware file, be sure to include the leading zeros when editing the dd-wrt firmare file. A freeware hex editor such as Neo will do the trick though.
Someone uploaded an edited version of a firmware on the forums. You can use this instead of editing it yourself.
Connect to the DIR-615 using an Ethernet cable.
Open [ Register or Signin to view external links. ] in your web browser (Firefox recommended), which should open the DIR615's administrative page from the standard D-link firmware.
The D-link's default login details are user "admin", password is blank.
Tools -> Firmware
Click "browse" button -> select the "dir615[edition]-factory-to-ddwrt-firmware.bin" file -> click "Upload" button.
Wait 2 or 3 minutes for the DIR-615 to flash and do the update. You will see a status page that shows you the progress as it happens. After the flash & update is done, the router will reboot to dd-wrt, and the IP address will have changed to 192.168.1.1. There is no need to reset.
If it tells you that you've uploaded firmware for the wrong hardware, you may need to try another browser. This happened for me using Google Chrome on Linux, until I tried using Firefox(Same on Windows, IE6 helps). If your dlink 615 C1 is at f/w 3.12 or 3.11 you may have to revert it to 3.10 and then install the dd-wrt.
Open [ Register or Signin to view external links. ] in web browser. Will probably have to update your IP address (if using static IP) to this subnet to be able to connect. This should open DD-WRT's web interface. Configure DD-WRT as desired.
You're finished! No need to 30/30/30 hard reset, but you can reboot your router after several minutes. (I don't know if it has to build anything in NVRAM, but better safe than sorry.)
[edit] Alternate Install Method using Firmware Update Mode
Setup your PC with static IP on 192.168.0.0 subnet, such as 192.168.0.2.
Hold down the Reset button until the power light starts flashing yellow (under 30 sec).
Follow the instructions as shown above.
If it's working, you will see a page with the percentage completed constantly updating. If your upload completes and nothing happens or it tells you the firmware is for the wrong hardware, try using another browser. This happened for me using Google Chrome on Linux, until I tried using Firefox.
[edit] How to upgrade with new DD-WRT firmware
Download the latest firmware from: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ] , and enter the model as DIR-615. Download the new firmware file, which will be called dir615[revision]-firmware.bin.
Open the DD-WRT's web interface in your web browser. It's [ Register or Signin to view external links. ] by default.
Administration tab -> "Firmware Upgrade" button
click "browse" button -> select the "dir615[revision]-firmware.bin" file -> click "Upgrade" button.
It takes about 1 and a half minutes to upload and write the flash. Your browser will reload and let you know when it is done.
It is probably a good idea to reboot after updating. That's it.
[edit] How to reset the Router to initial DD-WRT configuration
If you forget the username or password, or if the configuration becomes really messed up, you can always clear all the non-volitile parameters by doing a 'factory reset'. To do this, with the router already fully booted, press and hold the reset button for 5~6 seconds and release. The router will boot back up and answer to 192.168.1.1 just as if it had just been flashed with DD-WRT.
[edit] How to restore to factory firmware
You must use firefox for this to work. Internet explorer will NOT work!
1) Set your computer's ip manually to: 192.168.0.X (not 1) AND set your subnet mask to 255.255.255.0. (Auto IP will NOT work).
2) Unplug the power cable to the router
3) Press the reset button and plug in the power cable when the power led flashes orange (about 15 seconds) release the reset. go to 192.168.0.1. You will see the emergency mode upgrade screen.
4) Upload your original firmware and wait.at least five minutes. The orange button should stop flashing and the router will reboot.
I have confirmed that this method works.
[edit] Alternate Install Method without using Hex Editor
There is a simpler method than using the hex editor if one can find the correct file. Using only the file '2-dd-wrt.bin' you can flash the DIR-615 C1 to DD-WRT. This method has been successfully tested on 6 different DIR-615 C1 D-Link routers.
You may be able to use the 'dir615c1-firmware.bin' but currently this method has not been tested with this file and router.
1) Do a 30-30-30 reset of the DIR-615 router (Holding the reset button the entire time, 30 seconds plugged in, 30 seconds unpluged, and 30 seconds plugged back in).
2)This should have reset the router to the factory default webgui which looks much different from the original webgui.
3) Install the '2-dd-wrt.bin' firmware. *NOTE* When installing DO NOT DO ANYTHING! It will look like nothing is happening for awhile. My recommendation, walk away from the computer for 5 minutes.
4) After it is finished installing your browser will change and then you can proceed to set up your router settings. (Because we are paranoid where I work, we also unplug the router for an additional 30 seconds before setting up the router).
[edit] Known bugs & issues
It is possible that after DD-WRT firmware is installed on DIR-615 Rev. C2, all wireless functions are disabled.
Status panel will state that "Radio is off", staying like this despite any modifications made on router's parameters.
Not even line terminal commands (such as "~ # wl radio") seems to bring back wireless functions online.
Some users reported enabling "Clone WAN MAC" under setup settings may solve the issue (at least 2 cases confirmed). "
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
You can tell which Rev of the hardware this router is from the box (it will say "H/W Ver: C1 F/W Ver 3.01" for example on the bottom of the box, underneath the barcode). A similar sticker with the hardware version and firmware version is also stuck on the bottom of the router itself. This means it's quick and easy to check the hardware revision before buying or borrowing it.
The factory default IP for this router is 192.168.0.1, user is "admin", password is blank.
[edit] Pros of this hardware
4 MB board, so no need to use "micro" DD-WRT builds.
Fairly inexpensive.
Fairly new hardware (released in 2009?), so it's widely available for purchase new.
Reasonably fast CPU clock speed.
Easy to install DD-WRT on this hardware (just flash through the web interface as per below, and you're done).
[edit] Cons of this hardware
No USB port, so cannot be a NAS for a USB drive, nor can it be used for Printer Sharing of a USB printer.
dir 615c2 USB! ( , ), 2 (D+/D-) atheros. usb dd-wrt dir615c2? ?
: ddr Winbond W9425G6EH-5 which is a 256 Mbit chip so 32 megs RAM seems certain. Atheros AR9130 CPU Atheros AR9102 WiFi chip 5-pin header possibly serial console 14-pin block probably JTAG
___________________ ? , ?
-, dir 615 , dir320! , dir 320 ( ) , -- , dir615
? 4???
[edit] Installation Instructions
[edit] Step-by-step instructions from out-of-the-box factory firmware
[For H/W D2 F/W 1.00VG skip steps 2-3 below, I found downloading "dlink-dir615d-factory-webflash.bin" 2010-08-09 directly worked fine AFTER restoring the device to the manufacture defaults (using the web interface maintenance -> reset to factory settings)]
To install dd-wrt on a D-Link DIR-615 Revision C1/C2/E3/E4, you can flash it directly from the router's web admin page (yes, that is correct... from D-Link's standard web interface). These are the steps to follow:
Download the latest firmware from: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ] , and enter the model as DIR-615. There will be two files, "dir615[revision]-factory-to-ddwrt-firmware.bin" and "dir615[revision]-firmware.bin". You only need the dir615[revision]-factory-to-ddwrt-firmware.bin file.
You'll have to find the hardware ID of your specific firmware. Your hardware ID is located at the end of your original D-Link's firmware file, available on D-Link websites. Get your original D-Link's firmware file using the following links: C1/C2 default firmware update site E3/E4 default firmware update site C2 RU firmware update site E4 RU firmware update site. Following are some popular hardware IDs: C1/C2 default: AP81-AR9130-RT-070614-02, E3 default: AP99-AR7240-RT-091105-01, E4 RU: AP99-AR7240-RT-091105-05. Note that in most cases, this hardware ID should have 2 leading zeros (e.g. 00AP81-AR9130-RT-070614-02). If the firmware version written on your router's box ends with RU (presumably for the Russian market, but also sold in other countries such as Israel), then the hardware ID might need to have a leading 01 instead of 00.
Use a hex editor to change the hardware ID at the end of DD-WRT's firmware file to your specific hardware ID. When copying the hardware ID from the DIR-615 firmware file, be sure to include the leading zeros when editing the dd-wrt firmare file. A freeware hex editor such as Neo will do the trick though.
Someone uploaded an edited version of a firmware on the forums. You can use this instead of editing it yourself.
Connect to the DIR-615 using an Ethernet cable.
Open [ Register or Signin to view external links. ] in your web browser (Firefox recommended), which should open the DIR615's administrative page from the standard D-link firmware.
The D-link's default login details are user "admin", password is blank.
Tools -> Firmware
Click "browse" button -> select the "dir615[edition]-factory-to-ddwrt-firmware.bin" file -> click "Upload" button.
Wait 2 or 3 minutes for the DIR-615 to flash and do the update. You will see a status page that shows you the progress as it happens. After the flash & update is done, the router will reboot to dd-wrt, and the IP address will have changed to 192.168.1.1. There is no need to reset.
If it tells you that you've uploaded firmware for the wrong hardware, you may need to try another browser. This happened for me using Google Chrome on Linux, until I tried using Firefox(Same on Windows, IE6 helps). If your dlink 615 C1 is at f/w 3.12 or 3.11 you may have to revert it to 3.10 and then install the dd-wrt.
Open [ Register or Signin to view external links. ] in web browser. Will probably have to update your IP address (if using static IP) to this subnet to be able to connect. This should open DD-WRT's web interface. Configure DD-WRT as desired.
You're finished! No need to 30/30/30 hard reset, but you can reboot your router after several minutes. (I don't know if it has to build anything in NVRAM, but better safe than sorry.)
[edit] Alternate Install Method using Firmware Update Mode
Setup your PC with static IP on 192.168.0.0 subnet, such as 192.168.0.2.
Hold down the Reset button until the power light starts flashing yellow (under 30 sec).
Follow the instructions as shown above.
If it's working, you will see a page with the percentage completed constantly updating. If your upload completes and nothing happens or it tells you the firmware is for the wrong hardware, try using another browser. This happened for me using Google Chrome on Linux, until I tried using Firefox.
[edit] How to upgrade with new DD-WRT firmware
Download the latest firmware from: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ] , and enter the model as DIR-615. Download the new firmware file, which will be called dir615[revision]-firmware.bin.
Open the DD-WRT's web interface in your web browser. It's [ Register or Signin to view external links. ] by default.
Administration tab -> "Firmware Upgrade" button
click "browse" button -> select the "dir615[revision]-firmware.bin" file -> click "Upgrade" button.
It takes about 1 and a half minutes to upload and write the flash. Your browser will reload and let you know when it is done.
It is probably a good idea to reboot after updating. That's it.
[edit] How to reset the Router to initial DD-WRT configuration
If you forget the username or password, or if the configuration becomes really messed up, you can always clear all the non-volitile parameters by doing a 'factory reset'. To do this, with the router already fully booted, press and hold the reset button for 5~6 seconds and release. The router will boot back up and answer to 192.168.1.1 just as if it had just been flashed with DD-WRT.
[edit] How to restore to factory firmware
You must use firefox for this to work. Internet explorer will NOT work!
1) Set your computer's ip manually to: 192.168.0.X (not 1) AND set your subnet mask to 255.255.255.0. (Auto IP will NOT work).
2) Unplug the power cable to the router
3) Press the reset button and plug in the power cable when the power led flashes orange (about 15 seconds) release the reset. go to 192.168.0.1. You will see the emergency mode upgrade screen.
4) Upload your original firmware and wait.at least five minutes. The orange button should stop flashing and the router will reboot.
I have confirmed that this method works.
[edit] Alternate Install Method without using Hex Editor
There is a simpler method than using the hex editor if one can find the correct file. Using only the file '2-dd-wrt.bin' you can flash the DIR-615 C1 to DD-WRT. This method has been successfully tested on 6 different DIR-615 C1 D-Link routers.
You may be able to use the 'dir615c1-firmware.bin' but currently this method has not been tested with this file and router.
1) Do a 30-30-30 reset of the DIR-615 router (Holding the reset button the entire time, 30 seconds plugged in, 30 seconds unpluged, and 30 seconds plugged back in).
2)This should have reset the router to the factory default webgui which looks much different from the original webgui.
3) Install the '2-dd-wrt.bin' firmware. *NOTE* When installing DO NOT DO ANYTHING! It will look like nothing is happening for awhile. My recommendation, walk away from the computer for 5 minutes.
4) After it is finished installing your browser will change and then you can proceed to set up your router settings. (Because we are paranoid where I work, we also unplug the router for an additional 30 seconds before setting up the router).
[edit] Known bugs & issues
It is possible that after DD-WRT firmware is installed on DIR-615 Rev. C2, all wireless functions are disabled.
Status panel will state that "Radio is off", staying like this despite any modifications made on router's parameters.
Not even line terminal commands (such as "~ # wl radio") seems to bring back wireless functions online.
Some users reported enabling "Clone WAN MAC" under setup settings may solve the issue (at least 2 cases confirmed). "
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