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#11. Posted:
002
  • Rigged Luck
Status: Offline
Joined: Sep 25, 20149Year Member
Posts: 4,817
Reputation Power: 7289
Status: Offline
Joined: Sep 25, 20149Year Member
Posts: 4,817
Reputation Power: 7289
Sabrosa wrote get a truck to jack up and shit.



Been there, done that, bad idea.

It's not just the 1-2k for a big ol lift and 400+ each tire. Now you need to get bigger gears (just got a quote at 2100). Once you do that you need to calibrate your speedometer as it will be off. Not a big deal, just annoying.

Now that you have a big lift, big tires, and big gears, now you need a longer drive shaft so you don't leak out of your transfer case (or transmission if 2wd). This can be a lot of money if you get a good one or cheap if you just get a spacer or something. You might still have a problem like I do because the geometry is all caddy wompus. Say from your rear diff to your trans is a 20* angle stock. Now with your 5,6,8" lift it is way off which puts a lot of stress on U-joints if it doesn't destroy the slip yoke / transfer case because it is spinning at a weird angle.

Now you have all that good, but you realize that the blocks you are lifted on on the rear are a lever destroying your leaf springs (due to axle wrap), so now you need beefier leaf springs. I got quoted 600 to get STOCK leaf springs put in my truck. I ended up buying F-250 LD springs and putting an AAL in them. I don't even want to look at the bill from that lol.

If you are on an IFS system like me, you will have a lot of problems replacing wheel bearings, ball joints, CV axles, ti-rod ends, etc. I just got both of my wheel bearings done at just under 500 each.

Lift "kits" are just kits to get your truck high. You still need to go back and buy a drop pitman arm if you are smart so you don't have HORRIBLE geometry in your steering components, and things like that to get your geometry right to make it a reliable vehicle.

Let's back up a second here. When you get a big lift and big tires, you don't stop as good. You are now going to need bigger brakes. Who makes those? Brembo. How expensive are they? You look, I don't even want to look lol. Here is how much they are for my truck:

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I bought my truck at 5k out the door. I have just under 5k in aftermarket items (I include things like new drive shafts and such as aftermarket things). I have OVER 5k in repairs. This would be when my tire falls off, my brake caliper decides it doesn't want to be with me, wheel bearings decide to die, CV's decide to snap, etc. Been there, done that, NEVER AGAIN. A lifted truck is a rich mans toy.
#12. Posted:
GMC
  • Gold Gifter
Status: Offline
Joined: Mar 26, 201212Year Member
Posts: 5,304
Reputation Power: 423
Status: Offline
Joined: Mar 26, 201212Year Member
Posts: 5,304
Reputation Power: 423
002 wrote
Sabrosa wrote get a truck to jack up and shit.



Been there, done that, bad idea.

It's not just the 1-2k for a big ol lift and 400+ each tire. Now you need to get bigger gears (just got a quote at 2100). Once you do that you need to calibrate your speedometer as it will be off. Not a big deal, just annoying.

Now that you have a big lift, big tires, and big gears, now you need a longer drive shaft so you don't leak out of your transfer case (or transmission if 2wd). This can be a lot of money if you get a good one or cheap if you just get a spacer or something. You might still have a problem like I do because the geometry is all caddy wompus. Say from your rear diff to your trans is a 20* angle stock. Now with your 5,6,8" lift it is way off which puts a lot of stress on U-joints if it doesn't destroy the slip yoke / transfer case because it is spinning at a weird angle.

Now you have all that good, but you realize that the blocks you are lifted on on the rear are a lever destroying your leaf springs (due to axle wrap), so now you need beefier leaf springs. I got quoted 600 to get STOCK leaf springs put in my truck. I ended up buying F-250 LD springs and putting an AAL in them. I don't even want to look at the bill from that lol.

If you are on an IFS system like me, you will have a lot of problems replacing wheel bearings, ball joints, CV axles, ti-rod ends, etc. I just got both of my wheel bearings done at just under 500 each.

Lift "kits" are just kits to get your truck high. You still need to go back and buy a drop pitman arm if you are smart so you don't have HORRIBLE geometry in your steering components, and things like that to get your geometry right to make it a reliable vehicle.

Let's back up a second here. When you get a big lift and big tires, you don't stop as good. You are now going to need bigger brakes. Who makes those? Brembo. How expensive are they? You look, I don't even want to look lol. Here is how much they are for my truck:

[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]


I bought my truck at 5k out the door. I have just under 5k in aftermarket items (I include things like new drive shafts and such as aftermarket things). I have OVER 5k in repairs. This would be when my tire falls off, my brake caliper decides it doesn't want to be with me, wheel bearings decide to die, CV's decide to snap, etc. Been there, done that, NEVER AGAIN. A lifted truck is a rich mans toy.


That's why you buy a truck with a lift kit already on it then you don't have all them problems
#13. Posted:
002
  • Summer 2023
Status: Offline
Joined: Sep 25, 20149Year Member
Posts: 4,817
Reputation Power: 7289
Status: Offline
Joined: Sep 25, 20149Year Member
Posts: 4,817
Reputation Power: 7289
GMC wrote
002 wrote
Sabrosa wrote get a truck to jack up and shit.



Been there, done that, bad idea.

It's not just the 1-2k for a big ol lift and 400+ each tire. Now you need to get bigger gears (just got a quote at 2100). Once you do that you need to calibrate your speedometer as it will be off. Not a big deal, just annoying.

Now that you have a big lift, big tires, and big gears, now you need a longer drive shaft so you don't leak out of your transfer case (or transmission if 2wd). This can be a lot of money if you get a good one or cheap if you just get a spacer or something. You might still have a problem like I do because the geometry is all caddy wompus. Say from your rear diff to your trans is a 20* angle stock. Now with your 5,6,8" lift it is way off which puts a lot of stress on U-joints if it doesn't destroy the slip yoke / transfer case because it is spinning at a weird angle.

Now you have all that good, but you realize that the blocks you are lifted on on the rear are a lever destroying your leaf springs (due to axle wrap), so now you need beefier leaf springs. I got quoted 600 to get STOCK leaf springs put in my truck. I ended up buying F-250 LD springs and putting an AAL in them. I don't even want to look at the bill from that lol.

If you are on an IFS system like me, you will have a lot of problems replacing wheel bearings, ball joints, CV axles, ti-rod ends, etc. I just got both of my wheel bearings done at just under 500 each.

Lift "kits" are just kits to get your truck high. You still need to go back and buy a drop pitman arm if you are smart so you don't have HORRIBLE geometry in your steering components, and things like that to get your geometry right to make it a reliable vehicle.

Let's back up a second here. When you get a big lift and big tires, you don't stop as good. You are now going to need bigger brakes. Who makes those? Brembo. How expensive are they? You look, I don't even want to look lol. Here is how much they are for my truck:

[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]


I bought my truck at 5k out the door. I have just under 5k in aftermarket items (I include things like new drive shafts and such as aftermarket things). I have OVER 5k in repairs. This would be when my tire falls off, my brake caliper decides it doesn't want to be with me, wheel bearings decide to die, CV's decide to snap, etc. Been there, done that, NEVER AGAIN. A lifted truck is a rich mans toy.


That's why you buy a truck with a lift kit already on it then you don't have all them problems


If only it worked that way lol. Even if I sell my truck, the problems are still there.
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