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DIY Changing Brake Pads for Disc Brakes.
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DIY Changing Brake Pads for Disc Brakes.Posted:
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Okay, assuming there are some of you that don't have a lot of mechanical experience, I will be teaching you guys how to change the brake pads on your disc brakes. This can be beneficial and saving yourself money!
Ceramic material pads are a little more costly, but they withstand higher braking temperatures and do not produce a noticeable amount of brake dust.
You're brake pads have metal pieces, that will eventually come in contact with your rotor that will make a squeaking sound to alert the operator that the pads will need to be changed.
Tools you will need: Tire iron or impact gun, jack, jack stands, new pads, a set of sockets and a ratchet. I use a 3/8 ratchet drive. And a large pair of pliers (Not pictured)
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First, and this is only necessary if you do not have access to an impact gun to loosen the lugs. It is much easier to brake the lug nuts loose, if the vehicle is still on the ground. If it is elevated the tire will want to turn, and depending on your vehicle it may or may not provide enough resistance to break the lug nuts loose. So doing it on the ground will save a headache.
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Then, you will need to elevate the vehicle (front or back end) use a jack and put jack stands under the axles for safety. Or better yet, if you have access to a lift things will be easier.
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Once you have the vehicle elevated remove the tire from the hub assembly.
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After your tire is off it is time to remove the caliper from the rotor. There are two larger bolts to do this. The caliper has a frame, and inside of the frame is another assembly, held on by two smaller bolts. Break all of these bolts loose before sliding the caliper off of the rotor to make things easier. There is a third bolt in the middle that holds the brake line into the rotor. If you remove this bolt fluid is going to start draining from your braking system, and if you get air in the system you will lose brake pressure which could result in big problems. For no reason should this bolt be taken out, unless you are going to replacing the brake lines. I am not explaining in this thread how to do that. Also, once the caliper if off of the rotor, you will need something to hold it and not let it hang down and damage your brake line, I just used my jack to hold it up. You could also use a bungee cord and hold it on the frame, you just want to keep it elevated to prevent damaging your brake line.
The two larger bolts that hold caliper on rotor.
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The two smaller bolts that have rubber bushings around the spacers to remove the brake pad assembly.
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Obviously since these are broke loose you shouldn't have to hold the caliper too tight to get them out all the way but you do need all 4 of the bolts out.
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In the picture above I am holding the bracket and assembly in my hand off of the rotor.
After you seperate the caliper bracket, frame, or assembly holder (Whatever you may want to call it.) where the brake pads will slide into after your remove the old ones. The old ones will only slide out one side, since there is like a wall on the other. Usually it is toward the outside of the vehicle.
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In the picture above, the mount is still on the rotor, you can see the old pads still in there. All you have to do is slide the mount off and push the pads out towards you and slide the new ones in. (It is just sitting there in the picture, the two bolts are already out. The pads are universal in the set so it doesn't matter what goes where, just make sure you put them in how they came out. You must make a gap between the pads big enough that you can slide that bracket back over the rotor. Once it is over the rotor with the new pads you can push them together as close as possible to the rotor to make getting the piston assembly back on less of a headache. But after the pads are back in the bracket, you can put the two larger bolts back on that hold the bracket of the caliper onto the rotor.
There is one last step before putting everything together.
One problem is that I forgot to take the last picture... but it isn't hard.
As you see in the picture above the piston is extended because the old pads were not as thick as the newer ones. To get the piston assembly to slide back over the mount you must compress the piston back to make a larger gap to slide over the pads and rotor.
There are two types of pistons:
1. One type comes straight out and can be compressed back by using pliers to push it in.
2. The other rotates as it comes out, and has to rotate the opposite way to push it in.
-This piston will have an engraved X on it, to rotate this piston is you will need a large screw driver and all you have to do is turn it.
Whichever piston you may have, it will need to be compressed so that it will have clearance to fit over the rotor and the new thicker pads. It is okay if you compress the piston to far to gain clearance, because when you use your brakes it will be pushed back out.
Once you have it compressed, and have slid it back onto the mount, you can put the two smaller bolts back in to make your caliper one piece again.
After your caliper is back on with the new pads all you need to do is put your tire back on, and that brake setup is done. You will need to do the other side so the balance is the same for both sides (Which is why you will get 4 brake pads), along with the front or back if it is needed.
[size=16]Always after doing your brakes, especially pads. You will need to get in the vehicle pump your brakes. This is essential if you pushed the piston back to far. Pumping the brakes will put pressure to the pistons and if they are not against the pads yet, this will push them out. Push on your brake pedal many times until the brake pedal becomes very hard and you can barely push down anymore.
Only my rear pads needed changed so I just did the rear wheels. I apologize for not having that picture, and if anyone needs help or troubleshooting go ahead and ask.
I do not take any responsibility in any damages you may create to your vehicle, also since doing your brakes can be dangerous if you mess up I do not take responsibility if you mess something up and your brakes go out. This is a post to help you gain an understanding on how to do this and save yourself money. There are mulitple youtube tuts, but they can go fast and not explain everything. I tried to explain as much as possible in detail to help if anyone has any confusion. Do not attempt if you do not have access to the right tools, and you feel like you shouldn't do something you probably shouldn't. Anyway if anyone has any questions on anything feel free to PM me. I am here to help anyone that wants to attempt this.[/size]
Ceramic material pads are a little more costly, but they withstand higher braking temperatures and do not produce a noticeable amount of brake dust.
You're brake pads have metal pieces, that will eventually come in contact with your rotor that will make a squeaking sound to alert the operator that the pads will need to be changed.
Tools you will need: Tire iron or impact gun, jack, jack stands, new pads, a set of sockets and a ratchet. I use a 3/8 ratchet drive. And a large pair of pliers (Not pictured)
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
First, and this is only necessary if you do not have access to an impact gun to loosen the lugs. It is much easier to brake the lug nuts loose, if the vehicle is still on the ground. If it is elevated the tire will want to turn, and depending on your vehicle it may or may not provide enough resistance to break the lug nuts loose. So doing it on the ground will save a headache.
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Then, you will need to elevate the vehicle (front or back end) use a jack and put jack stands under the axles for safety. Or better yet, if you have access to a lift things will be easier.
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Once you have the vehicle elevated remove the tire from the hub assembly.
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
After your tire is off it is time to remove the caliper from the rotor. There are two larger bolts to do this. The caliper has a frame, and inside of the frame is another assembly, held on by two smaller bolts. Break all of these bolts loose before sliding the caliper off of the rotor to make things easier. There is a third bolt in the middle that holds the brake line into the rotor. If you remove this bolt fluid is going to start draining from your braking system, and if you get air in the system you will lose brake pressure which could result in big problems. For no reason should this bolt be taken out, unless you are going to replacing the brake lines. I am not explaining in this thread how to do that. Also, once the caliper if off of the rotor, you will need something to hold it and not let it hang down and damage your brake line, I just used my jack to hold it up. You could also use a bungee cord and hold it on the frame, you just want to keep it elevated to prevent damaging your brake line.
The two larger bolts that hold caliper on rotor.
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
The two smaller bolts that have rubber bushings around the spacers to remove the brake pad assembly.
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Obviously since these are broke loose you shouldn't have to hold the caliper too tight to get them out all the way but you do need all 4 of the bolts out.
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
In the picture above I am holding the bracket and assembly in my hand off of the rotor.
After you seperate the caliper bracket, frame, or assembly holder (Whatever you may want to call it.) where the brake pads will slide into after your remove the old ones. The old ones will only slide out one side, since there is like a wall on the other. Usually it is toward the outside of the vehicle.
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
In the picture above, the mount is still on the rotor, you can see the old pads still in there. All you have to do is slide the mount off and push the pads out towards you and slide the new ones in. (It is just sitting there in the picture, the two bolts are already out. The pads are universal in the set so it doesn't matter what goes where, just make sure you put them in how they came out. You must make a gap between the pads big enough that you can slide that bracket back over the rotor. Once it is over the rotor with the new pads you can push them together as close as possible to the rotor to make getting the piston assembly back on less of a headache. But after the pads are back in the bracket, you can put the two larger bolts back on that hold the bracket of the caliper onto the rotor.
There is one last step before putting everything together.
One problem is that I forgot to take the last picture... but it isn't hard.
As you see in the picture above the piston is extended because the old pads were not as thick as the newer ones. To get the piston assembly to slide back over the mount you must compress the piston back to make a larger gap to slide over the pads and rotor.
There are two types of pistons:
1. One type comes straight out and can be compressed back by using pliers to push it in.
2. The other rotates as it comes out, and has to rotate the opposite way to push it in.
-This piston will have an engraved X on it, to rotate this piston is you will need a large screw driver and all you have to do is turn it.
Whichever piston you may have, it will need to be compressed so that it will have clearance to fit over the rotor and the new thicker pads. It is okay if you compress the piston to far to gain clearance, because when you use your brakes it will be pushed back out.
Once you have it compressed, and have slid it back onto the mount, you can put the two smaller bolts back in to make your caliper one piece again.
After your caliper is back on with the new pads all you need to do is put your tire back on, and that brake setup is done. You will need to do the other side so the balance is the same for both sides (Which is why you will get 4 brake pads), along with the front or back if it is needed.
[size=16]Always after doing your brakes, especially pads. You will need to get in the vehicle pump your brakes. This is essential if you pushed the piston back to far. Pumping the brakes will put pressure to the pistons and if they are not against the pads yet, this will push them out. Push on your brake pedal many times until the brake pedal becomes very hard and you can barely push down anymore.
Only my rear pads needed changed so I just did the rear wheels. I apologize for not having that picture, and if anyone needs help or troubleshooting go ahead and ask.
I do not take any responsibility in any damages you may create to your vehicle, also since doing your brakes can be dangerous if you mess up I do not take responsibility if you mess something up and your brakes go out. This is a post to help you gain an understanding on how to do this and save yourself money. There are mulitple youtube tuts, but they can go fast and not explain everything. I tried to explain as much as possible in detail to help if anyone has any confusion. Do not attempt if you do not have access to the right tools, and you feel like you shouldn't do something you probably shouldn't. Anyway if anyone has any questions on anything feel free to PM me. I am here to help anyone that wants to attempt this.[/size]
The following 2 users thanked 24v for this useful post:
ZacharyVapes (09-02-2014), XenoChrist (09-01-2014)
#2. Posted:
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Status: Offline
Joined: Mar 26, 201212Year Member
Posts: 5,304
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all that rust lol but nice little tut
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- 0not useful
#3. Posted:
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Joined: Jul 20, 201013Year Member
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GMC wrote all that rust lol but nice little tut
Truck is 12 years old and has 120k miles on it, and lives through the northern illinois winters.
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#4. Posted:
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Joined: Jan 24, 201014Year Member
Posts: 850
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Status: Offline
Joined: Jan 24, 201014Year Member
Posts: 850
Reputation Power: 44
Ram1500 wroteGMC wrote all that rust lol but nice little tut
Truck is 12 years old and has 120k miles on it, and lives through the northern illinois winters.
gotta love the salt they throw on the winter roads in southern illinois as well, most vehicles older than 10 years have fenders rusted out and paint peeled off.
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#5. Posted:
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Joined: Jul 20, 201013Year Member
Posts: 1,552
Reputation Power: 64
WHITExTRASH wroteRam1500 wroteGMC wrote all that rust lol but nice little tut
Truck is 12 years old and has 120k miles on it, and lives through the northern illinois winters.
gotta love the salt they throw on the winter roads in southern illinois as well, most vehicles older than 10 years have fenders rusted out and paint peeled off.
I feel ya man, I just redid my rear fenders and rocker panels on this truck.
I am going to have to do the rear bumper eventually too, it has surface rust starting all over the place.
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