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RGH1&2 Tutorial with a CoolRunner Rev C [Slim&Phat]
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RGH1&2 Tutorial with a CoolRunner Rev C [Slim&Phat]Posted:
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Status: Offline
Joined: Dec 08, 201013Year Member
Posts: 931
Reputation Power: 40
Credit goes to UberGeek at TX
PLEASE GO TO SEAEYES TOPIC FOR PROGRAMMING THE COOLRUNNER AND BUILDING THE NAND!!!
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
We recommend that the CoolRunner is programmed first with the correct XSVF file before installation. You can use a NAND-X, J-R Programmer or Xilinx LPT Cable. There are 4 different ones for RGH2. Try the default one for you motherboard first along with the various settings, note all of your glitch times and then do the same for each timing file. Go with whichever works best for you. It may help others if you report your experiences. It will also make you look awesome.
Use the wires that are included with the CoolRunner Rev C kit (The blue wire is included as a spare CPU_RST wire. This is standard wire and may be used if you want to compare performance against using the 50 Ohm Low Loss Double Shielded white colored cable that is included). They are cut to optimum length. Make sure the switch is set to PHAT (Although you can also try switching to Slim - go with whichever gives you the best results)
LED INFO:
RED LED: Power
GREEN LED: Glitch Cycles (Should flash on/off every 5 seconds)
EDGE SWITCH INFO:
The NOR/PRG switch is designed only to be used when you are programming the CoolRunner while it is installed to the Xbox. It cuts off the power line only. If you need to program while it is installed then turn the power off to the Xbox and set the switch to PRG. You can now program using LPT or USB (if you do not do this you will damage your NAND-X). When the CoolRunner is installed and running, the switch should be set to NOR.
DOUBLE SHIELDED CABLE / CPU_RST INFO:
This is the area that is most vital when looking for the best glitch times. We have included a 50 Ohm low loss double shielded cable with a solid core for the CPU_RST. You have to make sure that you solder the shield of the cable to GND by stripping it back to expose the shield (CoolRunner side and solder to the GND at the AV port). We have moved the CPU_RST soldering point from the bottom of the motherboard to the top. This minimizes interference and eliminates many fail variables.
A video on why it should be earthed
SOLDER JUMPERS:
Out of the box there are 2 blank resistors (labelled 000) that act as a closed jumper connection (Points 1 & 2). It can be removed and tossed away and filled with solder.
It's there as closed in it's default state as we can't do an actual solder jumper on the production line.
JUMPER #1: C15 (Default Closed) - This jumper should be open when performing an RGH2 install. You can also try it closed - go with whichever works best for you.
JUMPER #2: 10 Ohm Resistor (Default 2-3) - This jumper should be 1-2 when performing an RGH2 install. You can also try it at 2-3 - go with whichever works best for you.
JUMPER #3: 100nF CAP (Default Open) - This jumper should be open when performing any RGH install. You can also try it closed - go with whichever works best for you.
Phat
RGH1 PHAT
RGH2 PHAT
Here are some recommended posts by users who did their own troubleshooting and methods to improve glitch performance. Hopefully they may be of use to you:
Different wire layout techniques yield great results: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Great improvements with a Zephyr using shielded cable: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Tip
Other Trouble Shooting Tips:
#1 If your glitch times are fast but your console freezes at random points, replace the onboard 100nF cap with a 680pF cap (Credits to socalbill)
#2 If your glitch times are still slow (above 30 seconds) then try adding another 10 Ohms resistor in series with the CPU_RST Cable (onboard #2 jumper also set to 1-2)
#3 If you have damaged any of your solder points - here is a list of alternatives for the Phat: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Slim
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
You should be glitching within 1-3 Cycles (Green LED blinks for each cycle which is a 5 second pulse), so this equals 5-15 seconds. If your glitch times are higher than that then you should try the following alternative CPU_RST options.
Alternative Options
Alt. Option #1: SLIM POST QSB + Double Shielded Cable. Using the included 50 Ohm Low Loss Double Shielded Cable. There is no need to cut it down, however if your results are not satisfactory cut it down and see if your performance improves. Users have posted that the 44cm point gives the best results on average. Test and log as before and go with whichever works best for you.
Thanks to WNYConsoles for his pics
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Alt. Option #2: SLIM POST QSB + Blue Wire. Install the SLIM POST QSB and use an 8cm length of the blue wire. Then try the different length settings on the QSB to find the sweet spot.
Solder the Yellow wire (POST_1) to Pad #1 on the QSB. Then solder the 8CM Blue wire (CPU_RST) to Pad #50. This will give you 58 CM in length. Log your times then try Pad #47 (which will give you 55CM). Repeat all the way down to #29. Use whichever is your best time
Alt. Option #3: 50CM Blue Wire. Use the blue wire that is included with the CoolRunner Rev C. Success with this option requires you to wrap/coil the wire around the xclamp as per the pictures below (Thanks to n0syst3m for the technique & dgenx for the pic)
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
or like this (Thanks to BraveH43 for the pic)
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
You can also try putting the cable in a loop away from the xclamp like the picture below
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
SOLDER JUMPERS:
Out of the box there are 2 blank resistors (labelled 000) that act as a closed jumper connection (Points 1 & 2). It can be removed and tossed away and filled with solder.
It's there as closed in it's default state as we can't do an actual solder jumper on the production line.
JUMPER #1: C15 (Default Closed) - This jumper should be closed when performing a Slim install. You can also try it open - go with whichever works best for you.
JUMPER #2: 10 Ohm Resistor (Default 1-2) - This jumper should be 1-2 when performing a Slim install. You can also try it at 2-3 - go with whichever works best for you.
JUMPER #3: 100nF CAP (Default Open) - This jumper should be open when performing a Slim install. This jumper option is not applicable to Slim installs.
Trinity
Here are some recommended posts by users who did their own troubleshooting and methods to improve glitch performance. Hopefully they may be of use to you:
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Tip
Other Trouble Shooting Tips:
#1 If your glitch times are still slow (above 30 seconds) then try adding another 10 Ohms resistor in series with the CPU_RST Cable (onboard #2 jumper also set to 1-2)
#2 If you have damaged any of your solder points - here is a list of alternatives for the Slim: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
PLEASE GO TO SEAEYES TOPIC FOR PROGRAMMING THE COOLRUNNER AND BUILDING THE NAND!!!
Follow Step 1 and Step 4-6
Forums/t=3721558/xbox-360-rgh-tut...s-tut.html
Forums/t=3721558/xbox-360-rgh-tut...s-tut.html
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
We recommend that the CoolRunner is programmed first with the correct XSVF file before installation. You can use a NAND-X, J-R Programmer or Xilinx LPT Cable. There are 4 different ones for RGH2. Try the default one for you motherboard first along with the various settings, note all of your glitch times and then do the same for each timing file. Go with whichever works best for you. It may help others if you report your experiences. It will also make you look awesome.
Use the wires that are included with the CoolRunner Rev C kit (The blue wire is included as a spare CPU_RST wire. This is standard wire and may be used if you want to compare performance against using the 50 Ohm Low Loss Double Shielded white colored cable that is included). They are cut to optimum length. Make sure the switch is set to PHAT (Although you can also try switching to Slim - go with whichever gives you the best results)
LED INFO:
RED LED: Power
GREEN LED: Glitch Cycles (Should flash on/off every 5 seconds)
EDGE SWITCH INFO:
The NOR/PRG switch is designed only to be used when you are programming the CoolRunner while it is installed to the Xbox. It cuts off the power line only. If you need to program while it is installed then turn the power off to the Xbox and set the switch to PRG. You can now program using LPT or USB (if you do not do this you will damage your NAND-X). When the CoolRunner is installed and running, the switch should be set to NOR.
DOUBLE SHIELDED CABLE / CPU_RST INFO:
This is the area that is most vital when looking for the best glitch times. We have included a 50 Ohm low loss double shielded cable with a solid core for the CPU_RST. You have to make sure that you solder the shield of the cable to GND by stripping it back to expose the shield (CoolRunner side and solder to the GND at the AV port). We have moved the CPU_RST soldering point from the bottom of the motherboard to the top. This minimizes interference and eliminates many fail variables.
A video on why it should be earthed
SOLDER JUMPERS:
Out of the box there are 2 blank resistors (labelled 000) that act as a closed jumper connection (Points 1 & 2). It can be removed and tossed away and filled with solder.
It's there as closed in it's default state as we can't do an actual solder jumper on the production line.
JUMPER #1: C15 (Default Closed) - This jumper should be open when performing an RGH2 install. You can also try it closed - go with whichever works best for you.
JUMPER #2: 10 Ohm Resistor (Default 2-3) - This jumper should be 1-2 when performing an RGH2 install. You can also try it at 2-3 - go with whichever works best for you.
JUMPER #3: 100nF CAP (Default Open) - This jumper should be open when performing any RGH install. You can also try it closed - go with whichever works best for you.
Phat
RGH1 PHAT
RGH2 PHAT
Here are some recommended posts by users who did their own troubleshooting and methods to improve glitch performance. Hopefully they may be of use to you:
Different wire layout techniques yield great results: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Great improvements with a Zephyr using shielded cable: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Tip
Other Trouble Shooting Tips:
#1 If your glitch times are fast but your console freezes at random points, replace the onboard 100nF cap with a 680pF cap (Credits to socalbill)
#2 If your glitch times are still slow (above 30 seconds) then try adding another 10 Ohms resistor in series with the CPU_RST Cable (onboard #2 jumper also set to 1-2)
#3 If you have damaged any of your solder points - here is a list of alternatives for the Phat: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Slim
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
You should be glitching within 1-3 Cycles (Green LED blinks for each cycle which is a 5 second pulse), so this equals 5-15 seconds. If your glitch times are higher than that then you should try the following alternative CPU_RST options.
Alternative Options
Alt. Option #1: SLIM POST QSB + Double Shielded Cable. Using the included 50 Ohm Low Loss Double Shielded Cable. There is no need to cut it down, however if your results are not satisfactory cut it down and see if your performance improves. Users have posted that the 44cm point gives the best results on average. Test and log as before and go with whichever works best for you.
Thanks to WNYConsoles for his pics
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Alt. Option #2: SLIM POST QSB + Blue Wire. Install the SLIM POST QSB and use an 8cm length of the blue wire. Then try the different length settings on the QSB to find the sweet spot.
Solder the Yellow wire (POST_1) to Pad #1 on the QSB. Then solder the 8CM Blue wire (CPU_RST) to Pad #50. This will give you 58 CM in length. Log your times then try Pad #47 (which will give you 55CM). Repeat all the way down to #29. Use whichever is your best time
Alt. Option #3: 50CM Blue Wire. Use the blue wire that is included with the CoolRunner Rev C. Success with this option requires you to wrap/coil the wire around the xclamp as per the pictures below (Thanks to n0syst3m for the technique & dgenx for the pic)
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
or like this (Thanks to BraveH43 for the pic)
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
You can also try putting the cable in a loop away from the xclamp like the picture below
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
SOLDER JUMPERS:
Out of the box there are 2 blank resistors (labelled 000) that act as a closed jumper connection (Points 1 & 2). It can be removed and tossed away and filled with solder.
It's there as closed in it's default state as we can't do an actual solder jumper on the production line.
JUMPER #1: C15 (Default Closed) - This jumper should be closed when performing a Slim install. You can also try it open - go with whichever works best for you.
JUMPER #2: 10 Ohm Resistor (Default 1-2) - This jumper should be 1-2 when performing a Slim install. You can also try it at 2-3 - go with whichever works best for you.
JUMPER #3: 100nF CAP (Default Open) - This jumper should be open when performing a Slim install. This jumper option is not applicable to Slim installs.
Trinity
Here are some recommended posts by users who did their own troubleshooting and methods to improve glitch performance. Hopefully they may be of use to you:
[ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
Tip
Other Trouble Shooting Tips:
#1 If your glitch times are still slow (above 30 seconds) then try adding another 10 Ohms resistor in series with the CPU_RST Cable (onboard #2 jumper also set to 1-2)
#2 If you have damaged any of your solder points - here is a list of alternatives for the Slim: [ Register or Signin to view external links. ]
The following 1 user thanked Sheperdebops for this useful post:
HarmfulMushroom (06-26-2012)
#2. Posted:
Status: Offline
Joined: Mar 19, 201113Year Member
Posts: 2,206
Reputation Power: 10
Status: Offline
Joined: Mar 19, 201113Year Member
Posts: 2,206
Reputation Power: 10
nice tutorial will be using with seaeyes post along with this one
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