Xbox 360First post on the forum because I really need some help!ASAP
Status: Offline
Joined: Mar 02, 20213Year Member
Posts: 2
Reputation Power: 0
|
Whats up guys, thanks for at least thinking about trying to help out my kids & I. TLDR - The new guy needs some help fixing controllers with charging problems before they get hardwired! So a quick overview of my problem. I've got 3 young daughters that I'm setting up an old 360 to be their own "entertainment system", as they say. The problems lie with the wireless controllers. AA battery packs, rechargeable packs do not work. I have multiples of each, & have tried all combinations between them. Also have two consoles, laptops, etc. Not even a flicker. However, those same controllers work just fine when they are hooked up to a charging cable, with or without a battery pack installed. I would be happy to just get the AA packs working tbh at this point, or if anybody knows a tutorial on how to make a hard wire job come out clean I'm open to all ideas at this point. I am no expert with electronics by any stretch, but I'm friendly with a soldering iron.. I have tried everything I know to so far to try to fix them without going to deep, in work or money. There isn't any corrosion on the controller inside, or the packs themselves. I've cleaned all contacts. Verified there is power actually coming out of the charging cable (which was hot) so I do not believe the issue to be the cord. The cord is the only thing I only have one of. I would prefer not to have to buy another, or probably a whole kit if I can avoid it being this set up is for young kids. All batteries were tested for voltage including the AA. The rechargeable packs I bought used, & they do not state what the volts should be, but they all do show they have some power even with not being used often. I feel like at the least they should have enough juice to take a charge without having to "zap" it with a different battery. When plugged in while playing the light on the charger stays green. I don't know that it has ever went red, or if its supposed, although one would think so. I've tried lifting the contacts that are inside the AA packs, & cleaning those as well with no luck. Using the controllers plugged in they have no issues. I have not opened the controllers, or battery packs, but I'm not against it if I know what I should be looking for. I haven't been able to find a post on the forums, or YT where its the same situation as I'm in. Nor have any of the "quick fixes" worked. If anybody has any idea what could be the issue any ideas would be helpful & very very much appreciated. If the controller model or anything like that is needed just let me know. Any & all tips, tricks, hacks, mods, voodoo, anything at all that just might help these batteries be able to do their jobs are all welcomed! Worst comes to worse, what are some of the best ways to reuse or mod a controller to upcycle it, or some unique ways to use them? No game mods this go though! Thanks again guys. Chew bubblegum, kick ass, & stay awesome. |
#2. Posted:
Status: Offline
Joined: Jan 21, 20213Year Member
Posts: 167
Reputation Power: 7
| best bet is to purchase a new controller or play pugged in |
- 1useful
- 0not useful
#3. Posted:
Status: Offline
Joined: Jul 25, 201112Year Member
Posts: 571
Reputation Power: 51
Status: Offline
Joined: Jul 25, 201112Year Member
Posts: 571
Reputation Power: 51
|
I'm guessing these are MS brand controllers? I see that you mentioned you checked the contacts but have you checked the ones inside the battery compartment which make contact with the batteries? (on the controller itself) It's most common for those spring contacts to start corroding, you can usually tell just by removing the battery pack. If there's no corrosion I'd test different battery packs and batteries. Since the controller works when wired it's most likely not an issue with the controller itself, unless its in rougher shape and could use a cleaning then it may be worth it to crack it open and check for any corrosion on the inner circuit board.
As far as "hard wiring" them goes you're best off getting a couple more wired adapters. You can buy them cheap online, probably under $5/each and not have to worry about replacing batteries. |
- 2useful
- 0not useful
#4. Posted:
Status: Offline
Joined: Mar 02, 20213Year Member
Posts: 2
Reputation Power: 0
|
Sorry to be ghetto about the replies, still trying to figure everything out lol. Just to give a general update. I got one controller to work with a aftermarket (I think, It's orange. I don't think MS made any orange ones) AA. I used small chucks of foil balled up, & dropped inside the battery slots. Inserted batteries, and pack as normal & got the light! I forgot to put in the first post that if I had a AA pack in one of the controllers that if I put pressure on the pack in a down & in way it would cut on, but immediately cut off when pressure was removed. The battery pack with foil seems to has at least temporarily gave a quick fix. Now to the battery packs, all 3 are different brands, however two are marked as Nyko packs , they are different though. Tried the "cord jumping" method to no luck, checking to see if voltage was increasing at all. To the big guns... 18v tool battery put some juice in them. I got 2/3 to show up on the screen as plugged in, & show charging. The other wasn't even showing that the controller had a pack inside. Haven't had much time to play to see if they actually charge, or will hold one. I may end up trying to just buy new cells for them if I can open them without damaging them.
@YxModz - Correct you are. That's for sure the easiest way. Corded is the only way for some people. Say it's faster supposedly, but I'm not sure about it. I honest just like the challenge, & to repair thin gs instead of buying new/more unless it's a must. Thanks for the response bro! @Hentch - Yes sir, they are both original to past consoles of mine. I believe they're both pretty close to some of the the "first gen" ones that hit the market. They've been well loved, haha. Based off my knowledge which is just enough to get me into trouble would be the issue is definitely based in the power sources. I'm sure the controllers could just a good cleaning inside none the less . I did check all contact points as well. They've been cleaned with multiple sprays, alcohol, brushes, air, the whole kit basically. About the only things that I would consider common would be open up the controller, or the AA packs themselves. I've seen a few videos of people splitting them to get to the strips inside. Do you happen to know what size cells the packs use, or what the fully charged voltage should run roughly? Thanks for the help! |
- 1useful
- 0not useful
#5. Posted:
Status: Offline
Joined: Jan 21, 20213Year Member
Posts: 167
Reputation Power: 7
| fair play to you good luck |
- 1useful
- 0not useful
#6. Posted:
Status: Offline
Joined: Jul 25, 201112Year Member
Posts: 571
Reputation Power: 51
Status: Offline
Joined: Jul 25, 201112Year Member
Posts: 571
Reputation Power: 51
87MCSS wrote Sorry to be ghetto about the replies, still trying to figure everything out lol. Just to give a general update. I got one controller to work with a aftermarket (I think, It's orange. I don't think MS made any orange ones) AA. I used small chucks of foil balled up, & dropped inside the battery slots. Inserted batteries, and pack as normal & got the light! I forgot to put in the first post that if I had a AA pack in one of the controllers that if I put pressure on the pack in a down & in way it would cut on, but immediately cut off when pressure was removed. The battery pack with foil seems to has at least temporarily gave a quick fix. Now to the battery packs, all 3 are different brands, however two are marked as Nyko packs , they are different though. Tried the "cord jumping" method to no luck, checking to see if voltage was increasing at all. To the big guns... 18v tool battery put some juice in them. I got 2/3 to show up on the screen as plugged in, & show charging. The other wasn't even showing that the controller had a pack inside. Haven't had much time to play to see if they actually charge, or will hold one. I may end up trying to just buy new cells for them if I can open them without damaging them. Ah I understand now. The contact springs on your controller are most likely weak or pushed too far down, this may have happened when cleaning them or using the foil? The right way to repair it is to desolder the contacts and replace them with new ones but as a sanity check you could lift up (slightly) on the springs and take out your foil since it's only there as a placeholder for the weak contact spring, and continue to test until everything makes contact. FYI I wouldn't know about the cell size but after a quick google search these controllers do run 3v since 1 AA Battery = 1.5v. Happy to help! |
- 1useful
- 0not useful
Users browsing this topic: None