#11. Posted:
TheFakeMrSneaky
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Can a mod delete this thread.
#12. Posted:
xDustyx
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CtrlAltDelete wrote If you know nothing about diesels you should buy a 7.3. The 6.0 Powerstroke is a great truck after many stock parts are gone. They take time to learn and are very complex pieces of equipment.

Yes diesels cost more. Fuel, parts, additives you name it cost more. Every oil change is $100,injectors 3000-4000 dollars. Head gaskets and studs $6000.

Yes they cost more but they are alot of fun to work on and build up. If you don't haul or tow its not very practical but cant take the money with you lol



Crazy how Diesel is more expensive than gas where you live.
In Germany is the opposite and always has been
#13. Posted:
002
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Looks like I'm a little late to the party here BUT none the less I'll still reply lol.

2005-2007 6.0's hold better value than the 2003/4 because of the upgraded suspension (coil front instead of leaf spring), as well as some engine differences.

I loved my 2006 and I also love my 2005. The 2006 was my first diesel and I don't regret anything. That truck by far was the most reliable truck I've ever owned. Just simple maintenance, no big repairs and it lasted me a long time before I decided I wanted to upgrade. You'll hear you need to stud these trucks and do all these upgrades but that is not my experience. I drive like an absolute idiot. That engine was completely stock minus the blue spring in the fuel bowl and I ran the hottest tune I could get. Ran it up to just shy of 200k miles and it never skipped a beat. The truck got sold to a guy who is using it as his "work truck" up in Alaska moving boats and crab pots and to me knowledge it's still going strong.

My 2005 has a similar story, but the previous owner did the studding and the EGR delete and some other engine mods (about $10k worth of work) I've got a ton more money into this truck than I did the 06 simply because I'm almost rebuilding it. I've done all new suspension, rebuilt the front axle, etc. etc. not because it needed it (in most cases) but because I wanted a "new" 6.0.

For a first diesel in the Ford world you'll hear people say get a 7.3 but I disagree. These trucks are old, it doesn't matter if you get a 7.3, 6.0, 6.4 or one of the first 6.7's they are old and will need repairs. The difference on the 6.0 and arguably the 6.4 is that they had a very rocky start and thankfully it was when people started really getting into making videos on repairing things. Anything you need to repair on a 6.0 you can find a video on. The 7.3 is kind of in the dark but eventually you'll get it. I'm not a mechanic by any means, I'm just a carpenter but I do find the 6.0 very easy to work on.

As far as diesel vs a gas, gas will always be the cheaper option. They are cheaper to buy up front, they are cheaper to maintain, and cheaper to repair. For example, take a 2006 Superduty with the 5.4L and it takes 7 quarts of oil. The 6.8L V10 take 6 quarts, but the 6.0 takes 15 quarts. It costs me around $120 to do an oil change if I do it myself. My old V10 would be under $50, probably under $40. Diesel is often more expensive than gas and while you do get better MPG, if you are just daily driving you won't get enough MPG difference to offset the cost of diesel alone. Maybe if you're towing but even then it's a stretch. Unless you need the towing capacity, you are buying a diesel because you like the way it feels, sounds, smells, etc. You will not save money or even break even with a diesel compared to a gasser.

The short story is yes, I would absolutely recommend a 6.0 as a first diesel. The one you posted pics of I would stay away from. You can get new cab corners and rocker panels but that's fairly expensive. As it sits right now it's not that bad, however one thing is for sure and that is it won't get better. You'd have to cut it all out to good metal and paint the edges and be ok with the holes for it to stop. Rust absolutely kills resale value. Not only that, but if the body looks like that what did the under side of the truck look like? Rusted bolts are a HUGE paint to get off, and if they snap then that's a whole nother issue.
#14. Posted:
TheFakeMrSneaky
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002 wrote Looks like I'm a little late to the party here BUT none the less I'll still reply lol.

2005-2007 6.0's hold better value than the 2003/4 because of the upgraded suspension (coil front instead of leaf spring), as well as some engine differences.

I loved my 2006 and I also love my 2005. The 2006 was my first diesel and I don't regret anything. That truck by far was the most reliable truck I've ever owned. Just simple maintenance, no big repairs and it lasted me a long time before I decided I wanted to upgrade. You'll hear you need to stud these trucks and do all these upgrades but that is not my experience. I drive like an absolute idiot. That engine was completely stock minus the blue spring in the fuel bowl and I ran the hottest tune I could get. Ran it up to just shy of 200k miles and it never skipped a beat. The truck got sold to a guy who is using it as his "work truck" up in Alaska moving boats and crab pots and to me knowledge it's still going strong.

My 2005 has a similar story, but the previous owner did the studding and the EGR delete and some other engine mods (about $10k worth of work) I've got a ton more money into this truck than I did the 06 simply because I'm almost rebuilding it. I've done all new suspension, rebuilt the front axle, etc. etc. not because it needed it (in most cases) but because I wanted a "new" 6.0.

For a first diesel in the Ford world you'll hear people say get a 7.3 but I disagree. These trucks are old, it doesn't matter if you get a 7.3, 6.0, 6.4 or one of the first 6.7's they are old and will need repairs. The difference on the 6.0 and arguably the 6.4 is that they had a very rocky start and thankfully it was when people started really getting into making videos on repairing things. Anything you need to repair on a 6.0 you can find a video on. The 7.3 is kind of in the dark but eventually you'll get it. I'm not a mechanic by any means, I'm just a carpenter but I do find the 6.0 very easy to work on.

As far as diesel vs a gas, gas will always be the cheaper option. They are cheaper to buy up front, they are cheaper to maintain, and cheaper to repair. For example, take a 2006 Superduty with the 5.4L and it takes 7 quarts of oil. The 6.8L V10 take 6 quarts, but the 6.0 takes 15 quarts. It costs me around $120 to do an oil change if I do it myself. My old V10 would be under $50, probably under $40. Diesel is often more expensive than gas and while you do get better MPG, if you are just daily driving you won't get enough MPG difference to offset the cost of diesel alone. Maybe if you're towing but even then it's a stretch. Unless you need the towing capacity, you are buying a diesel because you like the way it feels, sounds, smells, etc. You will not save money or even break even with a diesel compared to a gasser.

The short story is yes, I would absolutely recommend a 6.0 as a first diesel. The one you posted pics of I would stay away from. You can get new cab corners and rocker panels but that's fairly expensive. As it sits right now it's not that bad, however one thing is for sure and that is it won't get better. You'd have to cut it all out to good metal and paint the edges and be ok with the holes for it to stop. Rust absolutely kills resale value. Not only that, but if the body looks like that what did the under side of the truck look like? Rusted bolts are a HUGE paint to get off, and if they snap then that's a whole nother issue.


Hello! See it was so hard in the beginning because I was thinking like you and everyone else said no get a 7.3 like your saying haha. I wanted to make a new post because I did end up with my first Diesel in the 24th of November. I got a 2004 F250 Lariat 6.0 Powerstroke. The motor was swapped and ***BUILT*** from a 2005. The transmission was completely replaced with a brand new OEM one from ford. The motor only has around ~40,000 miles and the transmission is ~5,000 miles currently. Sadly the body does have 270,000ish miles on it but it's in very good condition surprisingly. Minimal rust and the underside looks very good. It spent the beginning of its life in North Carolina and ended up here.

The whole built part is hard to explain. Their is a huge list. But if I would have known just a tiny bit more I don't know if I would have bought this truck. The main things I'll say, it has delipped fly cut pistons ( delipped low compression , coated , whatever else you can call them) I don't know what all out of the mod list causes this... But it smokes like crazy on cold start ups. But like cold start ups.. it has been getting worse as the temps have been dropping. It clears up once the motor gets up to temp. So far all numbers have matched up. I did headgasket chemical tests and it came back good. Injectors could be bad yet as I haven't gotten a good test for them yet. But at this point I'm past it and am comfortable and believe the truck is in perfect working order. It's just a bummer. But I live about 3 miles from work so driving the diesel would be stupid anyways so currently the race truck diesel is used for grocery getting haha.

I'll try to grab some photos some time here and post them, but I am very happy and I love the sound this thing makes... It doesn't have the stock muffler but it still has a muffler so I would love to do a muffler delete to see if I can get more whistle due to that being the main reason I wanted a diesel... But the current muffler is like perfect size so it isn't coming off but I can see it wiggling back and forth... But I don't want to cut it off just in case it makes a huge difference i live in a very quiet neighborhood with nice people and I don't want to make them madder then what they probably already are haha.

I have now considered going to school to become a diesel mechanic lmao and I would buy 1000 more 6.0s maybe I am getting lucky with my first one but I am in love with it and in love with learning about these things...

Part list

2004 Ford F-250
Has an 05 motor, suspension, front clip,

38k or so on complete en

Work Done at 269,731
-Ford Transmission with warranty
-rear seal
-shifter cable
-shifter bushings
-shifter bushing, rod, sleeve, and handle
-fuel filters
-ac recharge

Work done at 239,000
-Blue spring kit with upgraded banjos & was her
-de lipped low compression pistons
-new heads
-set of 8 warren 155cc injectors
-Garret PowerMax Turbo
-turbo bolt and o ring kit
-Rocker Clips
-Rear Crankshaft Main Seal and rear cover gasket
-Colt Cams C.849.H Stage 2 Camshafts
-low pressure oil pump cover crank seal
-Ford Lifter & Guide Kit
-Head Gasket Kit
-Fuel injector o-ring kit
-heavy duty oil cooler and gasket kit
-intake gasket
-Intake to front cover gasket
-thermostat
-mishimoto coolant reservoir
-coolant filtration system

After Doing Complete Engine Rebuild 5-2019
-Exhaust Manifolds
-Turbo oil drain tub
-up-pipe to y-pipe gasket
-high pressure oil pump cover gasket And o-ring zeal kit
-Exhaust Manifold Hardware kit
-crank shaft positions sensor
-camshaft position sensor
-crank flange adapter bolt kit
-ARP head stud kit
-Motorcraft glow plugs
-glow plug wiring harness
-oil rail dummy plug
-inner row head bolts
-ARP balancer bolt kit
-XDP high pressure oil stand pipe and oil rail plug kit
-doorman hub locking solenoid
-mishimoto radiator
-ball joints
-U-joints
-starter
-coolant degas hose
-complete CAC Inter cooler boot kit
-Bilstein shocks front and rear
-injector pressure regulator
-FICM
-FICM wiring harness
-low pressure thermostat and cast housing
-regulated fuel return system

Just changed the oil two weeks ago

Oil changes have always been with motorcraft oil and filter


Message from guy who did Rebuild (not seller)

Im the one that did all the work to it. Yes it's all normal just the nature of it now. The smoke and rough idle is only when cold, the engine is just lower compression with the fly cut and lipped pistons and the way the heads are built. It's not a stock truck remember it's going to be a different beast.
#15. Posted:
002
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Sounds like it's got a pretty decent build list!

Yeah these truck will absolutely smoke on a cold start, especially when you're talking about bigger injectors, bigger turbo, etc. What you can do to cut down on that is you can plug in the block heater. Your power bill will go up, but your truck will be warm and ready to go whenever you are.

A couple questions I'd ask before you lose contact with the seller are:

Is the trans 100% stock or did they put the updated solenoids in it?

What size nozzles are the injectors? You can have 155/stock, 155/30, etc.

What brand are the heads? Are they O-ringed?

What brand gasket kit?

What brand oil cooler?

Is the FICM a stock voltage or a 58V FICM?

Does it have the EGR or has that been deleted?

What tune(s) does it have? Changing the tunes can also cut down on the smoke depending on what type of tune is currently on it. I run high performance tunes pretty much all the time and my truck smokes like it's going out of style when it's cold. Once it warms up it's decent and you don't see smoke unless I floor it but start ups are terrible in the winter. If I put it on a street or tow tune though there is very minimal smoke.
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TheFakeMrSneaky wrote Can a mod delete this thread.

WHY THOUGH?
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