I wouldn't be spending $2k+ on a system to use it with an old, 1080p monitor. Use this time that you actually have a bunch of cash, and just upgrade monitor now. You can easily get a 1440p144Hz, 4k60Hz, or 3440x1440 ultrawide @ 100/120Hz within your budget, as well as a really nice system, so there's literally no reason not to upgrade monitor right now IMO.
Swap the 3800x for a 3700x, no need to waste the $50-70. I'd also drop the $100+ cooler since stock cooler with Ryzen is perfectly sufficient, especially since you're unlikely to be overclocking a 3700x/3800x anyway.
You don't need a 750W PSU. You also don't need a PCIe 4.0 SSD.
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($307.99 @ Walmart)
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard ($198.32 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($156.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Intel 660p Series 2.048 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($204.99 @ B&H)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER 8 GB FTW3 HYBRID GAMING Video Card ($783.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Phanteks Eclipse P400A Digital ATX Mid Tower Case ($98.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: BitFenix Whisper M 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.98 @ Amazon)
no performance sacrifice, but this gives you $400 to play with. Like I said, more than enough for a number of decent monitors. Here's just a few options;
27" 4k60Hz - IPS panel
32" 4k60Hz - VA panel
27" 1440p144Hz - VA panel
32" 1440p144Hz - VA panel
27" 1440p144Hz - IPS panel
3440x1440 @ 100Hz - VA panel
3440x1440 @ 100Hz - VA panel
The Asus TUF X570 motherboard is a better option than the Gigabyte alternative's in the same price range IMO. Also, Asus' BIOS is better(again, IMO). Importantly for you, it's worth noting, that the X570 TUF I included(the wi-fi version), has Wi-Fi support out of the box(obviously), as well as bluetooth. So no need for an adapter. And yes, of course there are reasons to require bluetooth support on a desktop PC, other than "ALEXA". Although I would agree that I definitely would not be using a wireless internet connection, especially with a system of this caliber.
Kept the RGB RAM since it's not actually too over-priced these days, and same goes for the capacity- I'd stick with 16GB, but you have the budget and RAM prices these days are fine so I left the 32GB in for you. I also left the NVMe SSD, but switched to PCIe3 instead of 4 so that you can either save half the cash or get twice the capacity for the same price. The Intel 660p is more than fast enough for your main drive for OS and what not, and is still plenty fast for a game drive too, plus at it's current pricing, it's a steal.
For case, I wouldn't be spending $200, especially not on Thermalfake. There are PLENTY of options in the $70-100 range these days that are perfectly adequate for the vast majority of users. Then up to $150, there's even more great options. NZXT, Phanteks, Fractal Design are my typical go to's, but Cooler Master have been doing pretty well recently also, and there are definitely other brands with decent cases in the $70-150 range.
Lastly, I left in the hybrid 2080 Super that "Scratched" recommended above. Since the hybrid model is the same price as air cooled models, it seems like a no brainer to me. Watercooling is really going to help because clock speed on Turing is based entirely on temperatures. The lower your temps, the higher your clock speeds will be, which means the higher you're performance. AIO's are just going to keep the GPU cooler than an air cooler will. That said, AIO's inevitably die and the performance difference will be minimal, as in probably not noticeable unless you're superhuman. If you plan on keeping the GPU for more than 3 years, or don't like the look of the hybrid card, then get an air cooled 2080 Super in the $750-800 price range, and you'll be golden. Just keep in mind that the Hybrid 2080 Super should undeniably perform better than an air cooled equivalent.